Television Follow Up

Today I went into Columbia for my follow up interview at WIS-tv studios.  I had a few show and tell items that I brought with me to tell just a few stories.  Here's the link to the story.

Follow Up Interview with Dawndy Mercer Plank

Why should a girl have to choose?

Tuesday morning, we had our final visit.  It was so sad to realize that this was the end of our adventures.  We went to the Help Center for children with intellectual disabilities.  They are a comprehensive program promoting well being for all different aspects of children with intellectual disabilities and often times additional physical complications.  We were introduced to their programs and even had an opportunity to interact with some of their kids.  We were very impressed by the focus on arts integrated lessons, particularly the student art.  We enjoyed shopping in their little art shop.  I wish I had been able to bring something back, but my suitcase just could not handle anything more.
After that we had the rest of the day to do our last minute preparations to get ready to go back.  We were able to shop for those things we just hadn't been able to find yet.  The thing I was looking for was a jalabiya.  That's the traditional dress for Saudi women.  They are often beautifully embellished, vibrant colors, and always astonishingly beautiful.  I was looking for just the right one for me to bring back.  Well, we went to two different stores and I found one in each store that I just adored.  One was a more formal and more traditional Saudi one, while the other was simpler and would blend in better in the States.  I simply could not make up my mind.  I was really frustrated at the idea of only getting one, so after bargaining down the price on one of them, it became possible for me to afford both.  Why should a girl have to choose?  I thought this was a perfectly acceptable alternative.
The same question and same alternative seems to be facing Saudi Arabia.  Why should they be forced to choose?  In so many ways the country is a modern global force and yet in so many others it is a traditional and developing country.  There is a constant fear of embracing too much of the West or modernity and forgetting the past and its traditions, yet also the fear that being trapped in the past will mean Saudi Arabia being left behind by the rest of the world.  Finding that balance, that bargain of sorts, between the two is the story of Saudi Arabia.

I'm home now and processing my trip.  More reflections and maybe even the story of getting home are still to come...

Converse in Saudi Arabia and Interesting Conversations

Today was our last university visit.  :(  We went to Dar Al-Hekma College.  I swear it was Saudi Converse.  It was a small women's college that pushed the liberal arts.  Their graduates may not be as grand in number as the public institutions, but their accomplishments certainly are.  This felt oddly familiar.  We had a great time with their students.  I was able to have some great conversations when we had some time to just mingle with the students.  We were extended fantastic hospitality, as usual.  We even were able to participate in their relaxation week.  Such a treat!

After that, it was off to the home of the Editor-in-Chief of the Arab News.  He hosted us for lunch and great conversation.  We had a frank conversation about highly controversial topics.  It was nice to have a productive, no beating around the bush kind of talk.  He was open to recognizing both Saudi and American flaws.  Our conversation was critical, comparative, and complimentary at times.  Both nations are accomplished, driven, challenged, and at interesting points in their histories.

After that, we did our favorite thing in Jeddah-shop.  I found some really great things, so get excited!  I'm trying to start to pack my bags and it is tough.  Not only am I deeply upset to be leaving this country (and lifestyle) that I've really come to enjoy, but I have to leave my new friends.  Plus, packing is really hard.  I have a lot of stuff to get back and you have to be very careful and calculating in packing.  So much to think about!  But, in the wise words of Scarlett O'Hara, "I can't think about that right now.  If I do, I'll go crazy.  I'll think about that tomorrow."

What Next? Fried Chicken

I find myself never exactly sure of what exactly will be on our schedule for the day at any given point of time.  It has changed so much since our first one that now I just go with the flow and do what I'm told.  It's been a challenging lesson for me to learn, but kinda fun.  The other question that can never be guaranteed an answer is who will be driving our little bus that given day.  We have spent three days in Jeddah and have gone through four different drivers.  This poor city should have been warned about the dangers of a delegation of American women and our fearless male guardian- and all of our fury.  A quality driver is rare.  Today we did "bump" another vehicle, but such is common in the nasty traffic of Jeddah.
Our day started at Effat University, a private school for women.  It is the first one that we have seen that has a women's college for engineering.  The discussion that I had with these women was easily one of the best conversations I have had during my time in the Kingdom.  We talked frankly about feminism, women's rights, and women in society both in the United States and in Saudi Arabia.  We confronted stereotypes and how comically inaccurate they prove to be.  It's amazing what a little girl talk can do to bring world peace.  People are people, not policy.
How could we top that?  Well, fried chicken was a great way to start.  We ate take out from this regionally revered fried chicken place called Al Baik. People will fly into Jeddah to buy boxes upon boxes of it to fly home to their families in their lap.  We took our meal in the ladies room of a 300 year old house with our two lovely hosts.  It was good and tasted like home.  After lunch, we went shopping the old markets some more.  There is just so much to explore.  Shopping is just so much fun when you can barter and the goods are so varied.  We still have more to do.
We went to the opening ceremonies of an exhibition at King Abdulaziz University tonight.  It was completely segregated.  We went in through a separate entrance to watch the ceremony on closed circuit television just among us women.  I realized the benefit of the segregation when we learned a traditional Saudi dance while the men went through the exhibit.  We learned to dance, just not well.  I was certainly glad to only enjoy myself/make a fool of myself like that in front of the women.  It was nice to get to make friends with some more university students.  That has been one of my favorite things from the trip.  Now I'm crashing before another crazy (and unexpected) day!

A Day of Surprises

The Barbie I promised to upload yesterday

The view from my balcony

Today was a great day.  We got up this morning and had enough time to take a quick pit stop at the Red Sea shore before our visit to King Abdul Aziz University.  It was all fun and games until one of our group members came face to face with a wave.  Then all but one was rolling amongst the rocks.  We, again, LOVED our university visit.  I never cease to be amazed by how amazing these women are.  Their facilities as well as their intelligence, beauty, passion, drive, and talent are impressive.  They were such gracious hostesses.  We were so grateful for our beautiful gifts, particularly our homemade ones.  The conversation was lively and productive.  We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and our new friends.

After that, we went to the Khadijia center.  It lobbys and advocates for women in business and society through the Jeddah Chamber of Commerce.  They were truly spectacular.  They had completed a research study with some interesting and surprising findings.  The complete summary of statistics will be sent to us via e-mail.  It was very impressive.    We were able to have a frank and open discussion about the problems facing the society, the obstacles that have been overcome, and the future for women.  It was an eye opening and substantive meeting.

After lunch we went to a tour of the old market in Jeddah and history lesson on the city.  We saw buildings that were 1400 years old.  My little brain cannot fathom that.  The thing that touched my heart the most was hearing the call to prayer all around the city.  We were up in the rooftop room to hear the call to prayer.  You could hear the call from every direction of the city.  It created a chorus.  We were able to see all of the stores close and the men direct themselves to the mosques.  It was a beautiful sight and sound.  It was an experience for a Muslim and non-Muslim alike.  It was a nice surprise to be awarded that beautiful experience of the call to prayer.

We had dinner in the same room that King Abdul Aziz had taken meals.  We enjoyed a traditional dinner (this time featuring two different banana dishes for me to try) eating on the floor and with our hands.  We were joined by the staff from the American consulate office in Jeddah.  It was fun to interact with our own again.  We were able to ask some of the questions that we still had about our relationship with Saudi Arabia that had not been answered yet.  It was a great experience to share with our fellow Americans.

As we were leaving the place that we had eaten at, raindrops were falling.  We giggled at rain in the desert kingdom.  It was only a few drops, nothing too serious.  Enough to catch us by surprise.  We were taken shopping through the old markets.  We enjoyed it so much that we are headed back tomorrow.  I was able to get a really good deal on a new abaya.  "The word classy was used to describe it by one of the other fellows, so I was sold.  Our male guardian takes good care of us, particularly when we are shopping.  The man drives a hard bargain.  Our shopping pro is our most valuable asset, bartering and saving us money every where we go.  It's going to be great to be able to see what else is available tomorrow!

We ate up on the roof top room of this building.  It was beautiful.

Jeddah

Barbie, Beaches, and Birthday

This morning I woke up early to skype home and see the family.  What a great way to start my day!  It was the first time we had really been able to talk since I have been gone.  Then I had to have all of my luggage downstairs to load before breakfast so that we could hurry off to the airport.  When we arrived, we scurried through security. We had to actually go through traditional security screening this time.  It was interesting to see how segregated security works.  The women were sent through a special cubical room to be searched and cleared.  Then the two groups were able to return to their nonchalant mixing.  We greatly enjoyed our flight across the country, from one coast to the other.  Upon arriving in Jeddah, we went to our hotel.  Our rooms were not ready, so we were taken to the hotel restaurant that only opens for Friday brunch.  Friday brunch?  Friday is the end of the Saudi weekend, the equivalent of the American Sunday.  People will go to the mosque and then out to lunch just like Americans going to church and then out to eat.  It's funny to think that they dread their Saturday mornings like we dread our Monday mornings-only while we are enjoying our Saturday mornings.  We had a chance to get settled in before we went to the Red Sea Mall.  It became our mission during our mall visit to find a culturally acceptable Barbie.  We had heard from one of the other fellows that a Barbie wearing an abaya and hijab existed, so we knew it would not be an impossible mission, only a challenging one.  We had looked in one store at the last mall, but didn't find it.  Well, tonight we did.  We found one (pictures to come tomorrow) that was a little pricey, so we searched the entire mall.  In our quest, we also found morning prayer Barbie and Barbie clothes with a hijab too.  We are still in the search for a reasonably priced, culturally appropriate Barbie.  We will find one, inshallah.  After the mall we went down to the Red Sea corniche. It's what I kind of imagine the Jersey shore boardwalk to look like.  There were people selling balloons, paddle boats, families picnicking, little food vendors, carnival rides, and the shore.  It was actually quite enchanting.  We are going to try to go back in the day light so that we can get better pictures.  We were quite cute walking in the sand in our abayas.  Now we are getting ready to celebrate one of our fellow's birthday with a simple little party.  It's been a great first day in Jeddah.  We are greatly looking forward to the grand finale of our trip and hopefully plenty of shopping in the markets!

I can see Bahrain from my house.

Driving on King Fadh Bridge

The Arabian/Persian Gulf
This morning we woke up and climbed on the bus.  We drove over the King Fadh Bridge towards Bahrain.  This causeway links the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia with the Kingdom of Bahrain.  We drove across the bridge, turned around before we had to go through the border patrol, and stopped to take some pictures.  We were seeing the Arabian/Persian Gulf for the first time.  It was beautiful.  The water was blue and clear. From our location, we were able to see Bahrain.  It's hard to believe that just beyond the water was Iran.  We had a fun time enjoying ourselves and the view.  

I can see Bahrain!

After going to the bridge and to see Bahrain from my house, we went to a really neat restaurant for lunch.  It was very traditional.  It had its own museum that we enjoyed looking at while our lunch was prepared.  We learned how you make Arabic bread in a brick oven.  When it was time to eat, we sat on the floor around a table covered with food.  We ate all kinds of traditional Saudi food.  That was really intimidating to me.  I am a very simple eater, but I greatly enjoyed the different things that I tried today.  At one point, our male guardian called to me by my nickname, South Carolina, and told me that I had to try this one dish.  He told me it would be like grits.  How he knew about grits I do not know, but I he did know that I would like this stuff.  I certainly enjoyed my “Saudi grits.”  The lunch was delicious and left us all wanting to take naps.  That was not the plan though.  Instead we went to the mall and enjoyed shopping no different from any in the States.  I did learn about Carrefour, essentially a French Wal-Mart of sorts.  It was a fun little adventure before heading back to the hotel to get ready to leave for Jeddah in the morning.  It’s been a fun visit in the Eastern Province.  Looking forward to what’s to come in Jeddah!

 

Traditional Tent Room similar to where we ate our lunch

"Saudi Grits"

Dammam, Dharan, Whatever. It's Oil Country.

Since we have arrived here Friday night, I have yet to really know where exactly I am.  I know that our hotel is in Al-Khobar and that we flew into Dammam and that we are sometimes in Dharan, but it's never quite clear.  It's all so close together.  The important thing is that this is the Eastern Province and where all the oil is.  I wasn't able to write about yesterday because of internet difficulties compounded by pure exhaustion.

Sign at the girl's high school

So yesterday we began our adventures in this new area by going to the women's section of the University of Dammam.  We toured their medical school, nursing school, and community college.  The technology that the students were learning from was state of the art.  They had a beautiful, traditional Bedouin tent set up from an activity from the day before, so we were able to take our Arabic coffee in style.  We were able to see a segregated classroom from the female student's perspective and the male teacher's perspective.  It was really interesting to see how they were able to make that possible.  We met some remarkable women and enjoyed the hospitality. After that, we went to a local girl's school that had been built by Aramco.  We were interested in this school because their high school had recently adopted a Model Arab League program.  I enjoyed my personal tour of the whole school, from preschool through high school.  I had a lovely student show me around and take me into different classes.  They even taught home economics and Spanish.  After the tour, we had a panel discussion for the girls.  We were able to ask them questions and answer theirs.  It was really interesting.  The girls were very intelligent, but watched the worst of American television.  We greatly enjoyed our time with them.  Then we were able to go to the bank and exchange money before going back to the hotel to rest before our evening activity.  That night we went to the Prince Sultan Center for Science and Technology.  We began our visit with an IMAX film (a real one) called Journey to Mecca.  It's been a big hit here in Saudi Arabia.  It's the story of Ibn Battuta, a famous world traveler, as he makes the hajj to Mecca.  It was particularly impressive on the massive IMAX screen.  Then we were able to see the museum in all its glory.  It was an interactive museum, so we had fun playing on the different demonstrations.  Everything was in English and Arabic.  We learned about everything from sea life to the periodic table, oil to the human body.  It was great.  There was even an art exhibit as a temporary exhibit on the bottom floor.  The art was amazingly beautiful.  After that, a few of us went to the mall with our male guardian.  It was fun to see a more Saudi mall instead of a mini-American mall.  We had a great time.

Evidence that science can be fun and that you can do things in an abaya

I'm hoping this is not the best camel I ride

The Prosperity Well!

Today was a very busy day.  We had an early morning.  We spent the day at Aramco, the world's largest energy producing company.  We started the day with a 3D video about the company and then met with the Public Relations Manager.  We had our own personal tour guide through the museum/exhibit that answered all of our questions.  We are now little experts on oil.  It's great.  We had lunch at Aramco before seeing the compound and the Prosperity Well.  The Prosperity Well is lucky oil well number 7, the first one to produce oil in the Kingdom.  We stopped there before heading over to an academic center that is preparing Aramco scholars for a year after high school before sending them to college abroad.  Students are working on their study skills, English, science, math, and test taking.  In return, these students will go and study Aramco related majors around the world, at the expense of Aramco, and come back guaranteed a job.  It's a great deal for the best students of Saudi Arabia and for the company.  After that we went to the Center for Research and Development.  Our favorite part was easily wearing Aramco lab coats and safety goggles while we were touring the labs.  We felt pretty smart since we looked the part.  All in all, we learned a lot about oil and the future of oil.  Our last stop at the compound was a woman's house.  She was a collector of Saudi antiques.  Her home was full of them.  She even had a "museum" in her pool house.  She had collectibles from each region.  Her hospitality was just as delightful as her antiques.  She was a great finale to our day at Aramco.  After that, we went to the markets in town.  We were looking for new abayas and other local favorites.  We are still learning to barter, but we have definitely established our own clear styles about abaya fashion.  We all have certainly enjoyed adjusting to the life and culture here.  We have one more day in oil country before heading West.  We're already getting excited for Jeddah!

Farewell Riyadh!

Today was our last day in Riyadh, so we had to make the most of it.  We went out to the Prince Sultan Humanitarian City.  One our way out of Riyadh, we saw camels!!!  Now I feel like I have really been to the kingdom.  Prince Sultan Humanitarian City is a rehabilitation facility that focuses on people in accidents or with disabilities.  I was very impressed by the child development center and the prosthesis design workshop.  They served us a delicious lunch before we went to a private university, Al-Yamama, for a visit.  This campus was remarkably beautiful.  The design was very chic and we were quite impressed.  To help students practice the business principles that they learn in class, students are able to open businesses on campus.  We thought this was pretty neat.  The cost of tuition was of particular interest to many of us.  It is only approximately $6000 for tuition at a private college, something that Ministry of Higher Education scholarships normally cover for the average student.  There is clearly a thrust on education in this country.

 

After that we went back in time.  We went to Old Darrayah, a part of Old Riyadh.  They are currently in the process of renovating and preserving these ruins.  A special section that will not be open to the public until 2013 was opened up for us.  One of the project leaders showed us around the facility and answered all of our questions.  We learned a lot and felt like VIPs in the process.

After that it was back to the hotel where we said our goodbyes to the two women that made Riyadh a special place for us.  Our two female guides are remarkably intelligent and beautiful women that are professors at a women's university in Riyadh.  They lovingly guided us through our first few days in the kingdom, answering our stupid questions, showing us amazing hospitality, and opening their hearts to us.  My heart broke at leaving them.  Hopefully we will be seeing them soon, inshallah.  We packed our bags, heard the last call to prayer for us in the city, and went to the airport, through the government VIP security of course.  Our poor "male guardian" was the only one left to accompany us until we arrived in Damman.  Bless his heart-we are a handful.  Now we have arrived in Damman, had dinner,and settled in. We are looking forward to the adventures that await us here.

Our poor little white bus that took us from one story to another (with plenty in between) in Riyadh

A Prince, A Princess, and an American Ambassador

Today, of all days, did not go according to plan.  We were supposed to begin our day with a visit to King Saud University, but the prince requested to change our time, so we, of course, obliged.  We enjoyed meeting with His Royal Highness Prince Sultan Bin Salman Bin Abdul Aziz.  He talked about his work with the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Antiquities and discussed many of the problems facing Saudi Arabia.  He told us fun stories about his times in America, his experience in space, and invited us to the desert!  Hopefully we will be able to take him up on his offer before we leave.  He talked about economic issues, developing a tourism industry, environmental concerns, and Saudi history.  He even answered my question about maintaining the balance between modernization and tradition in the kingdom as the society changes.  He was truly a delight.
After His Royal Highness, we traveled over to visit the ladies section of King Saud University.  The girls there lavished us with gifts, showcased wonderful Saudi hospitality, and blessed our hearts.  We were able to have a wonderful question and answer session with them.  They had many questions for us and we enjoyed learning more about their school and experiences.  They were truly women going places.  In a recent scholarly research symposium with the male section of the university, the women made up over 70% of all of the research presented after competition.  These are truly exceptional women.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with them.
Then we headed to the Alwaleed Bin Talal Charity Foundation.  They are doing remarkable work within Saudi Arabia and throughout the world.  While we were there, we were able to watch a movie made by one of staff members about another delegation of students from Harvard's visit to the kingdom.  Their reactions were similar and very different from ours.  It has been interesting for us to talk about possible reasons why.  Our visit was made complete by a visit by Her Highness.  She was recently made the vice chair of the foundation.  She spoke with us for a few minutes before we darted off to Al-Masmak.  Al-Masmak is the old city of Riyadh.  It was the fortress that King Abdul Aziz was forced to take in Riyadh in order to take control of the city.  After that we hit some markets and did a little bit of shopping.  I made my first purchases with much assistance from our lovely female Saudi guides that have accompanied us through Riyadh.  In the markets you barter for your prices.  They helped me get some great deals.  They have been fantastic!
Our day concluded with a meeting at the home of the American Ambassador.  He had a remarkable frank discussion about US-Saudi Arabian relations.  He offered a unique perspective and we had some great conversation.  It was neat to touch American soil while so far away.
Tomorrow is our last day in Riyadh.  Here's to making the most of it!

Courtyard

I found baby Palmetto trees.  I feel so at home!

Al-Makmak, a fortress of Old Riyadh

Courtyard at Al-Masmuk

The Gift of the New Year

Today was a great way to welcome in the new year.  We woke up this morning and several of us got together for breakfast and to watch the ball drop in Times Square.  Then we were quickly off on our very scheduled day. If yesterday taught us about lavish food, today taught us about lavish gifts.
Our first stop was Princess Nora Bint Abdul Rahman University.  It is the first women's university in Saudi Arabia.  It is very competitive in admission and the academic programs cover a wide spectrum of subjects.  It was named in honor of the founder of the modern kingdom, King Abdul Aziz's sister.  She is comparable to Eleanor Roosevelt in America in terms of her contribution and revere in Saudi Arabia.  The university is currently building its new 8 billion dollar campus.  It is going to house a hospital, 15 colleges, dormitories, recreational facilities, shopping areas, primary and secondary schools, parks, and a world class library.  It's going to be remarkable.  First, we met with the Rector (President) of the college, the first female Rector in the kingdom.  She presented us with a goody bag of treats related to the college.  Then we were able to interact with some of the students.  The girls that we met there were amazing.  They were so hospitable and clearly intelligent.  They were very friendly, feeding us (again) and offering us even more gifts!  Our suitcases keep shrinking as we fill them with the hospitality of our hosts.  We enjoyed the company of our new friends.  They showed us their current facilities, particularly their science labs.  It was impressive.  We hated to leave, but we had a prince to meet!
Our next stop was a meeting with His Royal Highness Prince Turki al-Faisal at the King Faisal (his father) Center for Research and Consultancy.  The center focuses on research related to Islamic issues.  Our meeting with him was wonderful.  He was very candid with us.  He talked about the center for a while, but then discussed political questions with us as well.  He shared fascinating stories about his experiences being the Saudi Ambassador to the United States.  His accomplishments as Ambassador are impressive.  US-SA relations would not be as close as they are now, meaning that a trip like this would not have been possible, without the tremendous efforts he invested in the relationship in the years after 9/11.  He shared stories about curve balls from the White House and learning to monitor and adjust.  He answered our questions, discussing topics such as the impact of Wikileaks on US foreign relations, the New York Islamic Center, and the US involvement in Pakistan.  I even got to ask him about his outlook for Palestine.  His perspective is certainly well informed. The center sent us walking away with yet another bag full of goodies and books.
Our next stop was with a self-made Saudi businessman, Dr. Abdul Rahman Al-Zamil.  His company, the Al-Zamil group, is a family business that was built from the ground up, now one of the most extensive and lucrative corporations.  He was very open with his opinions and didn't shy away from sharing his opinion.  He was very generous and gave each of us a copy of James Zogby's Arab Voices.
The grand finale to our day could not have been better.  We were able to go to the beautiful home of Dr. Salwa Al-Hazza for dinner and discussion.  She is a leading opthamologist, the best in the kingdom.  She was responsible for the care of the late king.  In addition to her professional obligations, she is also a leading voice on women's rights in KSA.  She told us remarkable stories about breaking barriers and overcoming obstacles.  She is considered by many to be of celebrity status here.  She was funny, friendly, hospitable, and just a delight to spend an evening with.  Her family was lovely and so gracious to offer us their amazing home. As we enjoyed the great company, intriguing conversation, and wonderful homemade food, we particularly enjoyed having a meeting and evening wearing no abayas or hijabs.  We had fun being concerned about our outfit.  The lavish hospitality of the evening was made complete with another gift, prayer beads and warm wishes.  We left with smiles and memories and stories to last a lifetime.
The same thing seems to be proving true of our adventure thus far.  Ready for more smiles and memories to come!